In the United States, planting in February requires a regional approach tailored to your local USDA hardiness zone. While northern growers in zones 3 and 4 focus on indoor planning and early seed starting, southern gardeners in zones 9 and 10 are already transplanting warm-season crops and direct-sowing spring vegetables. By matching your February planting schedule to your specific frost dates, you can maximize your growing season without risking tender seedlings to late-winter cold.

Key takeaways

  • Zones 3 and 4 focus on indoor seed-starting preparation, winter sowing under cover, and starting slow-growing perennial crops.
  • Zones 5 and 6 begin indoor sowing of cool-season brassicas, onions, and hardy greens mid-month.
  • Zones 7 and 8 start warm-season tomatoes and peppers indoors while direct-sowing peas, spinach, and root crops outside.
  • Zones 9 and 10 enter their primary spring planting window, transplanting warm-season crops and sowing heat-tolerant varieties.
  • Checking local frost dates is essential before moving any indoor-started seedlings into outdoor garden beds.

Zones 3–4: northern tier and mountains

In these cold zones, average last spring frosts occur in mid-to-late May or even June. February is a month of preparation, indoor seed starting for very slow-growing crops, and winter sowing.

1. Bulb onions and leeks

Onions and leeks require a long growing season to produce large bulbs and thick shafts before the short days of autumn trigger dormancy. Sow seeds indoors in early to mid-February using deep flats or open trays filled with a pre-moistened, sterile seed-starting mix. Sow seeds about 1/4 inch deep and space them 1/2 inch apart. Keep the soil temperature between 65°F and 70°F until germination occurs. Once shoots emerge, place the trays under bright LED grow lights for 14 to 16 hours per day to prevent the seedlings from becoming thin and weak.

2. Celery and celeriac

These crops grow slowly in their early stages. Sowing them indoors in late February gives them the necessary head start. Because celery seeds are exceptionally small and require light to germinate, press them gently into the surface of the soil mix without covering them. Cover the tray with a clear plastic dome to maintain high humidity, and place it on a heat mat set to 70°F. Germination can take up to three weeks, so patience and consistent moisture are necessary.

3. Hardy perennials and native flowers

For gardeners wishing to start native perennials or cold-hardy annuals, February is the ideal time to utilize the milk jug sowing method. This technique protects seeds from harsh winter winds while allowing natural freeze-thaw cycles to break seed dormancy. For detailed instructions on setting up these miniature outdoor greenhouses, consult our guide on winter sowing in milk jugs.

Zones 5–6: Midwest, Northeast, and Mid-Atlantic

USDA zones 5 and 6 span the Midwest, Northeast, and Mid-Atlantic regions. With average last frosts occurring from late April to mid-May, February is a transition month. Soil is usually unworkable, but the indoor seed-starting calendar begins for cool-season crops that will be transplanted outdoors in early spring. Refer to the cool and warm season crops planting calendar to coordinate these transitions.

1. Brassicas (broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower)

Start seeds of early cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower indoors during mid-to-late February. Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in modular cell trays. Maintain soil temperatures around 70°F for rapid germination, then immediately lower the ambient temperature to 60°F to 65°F once seedlings emerge. This temperature drop, combined with intense overhead light, produces stocky, resilient transplants that can withstand light frost when planted out in April.

2. Hardy salad greens

Sow head lettuce, spinach, and Swiss chard indoors in late February. These crops germinate quickly and can be transplanted under the protection of a cold frame or plastic cloche weeks before the last frost. Sowing in multi-cell plug trays allows you to transplant them with minimal root disturbance, which reduces transplant shock and prevents early bolting.

3. Culinary herbs

Slow-growing herbs such as parsley, thyme, oregano, and sage should be started indoors in late February. Parsley seeds benefit from a 24-hour soak in warm water prior to planting to speed up germination. Keep these herbs in a warm, bright location, and transition them to individual pots once they develop their first set of true leaves.

Zones 7–8: Upper South and Pacific Northwest

USDA zones 7 and 8 cover the Upper South, parts of the Mid-Atlantic, and the coastal Pacific Northwest. In these regions, the average last frost occurs between late March and mid-April. February presents opportunities for both indoor sowing of warm-season crops and direct-sowing of hardy spring vegetables directly into the ground.

1. Tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants

Start these popular warm-season solanaceous crops indoors in early to mid-February. Because these plants require a long period of warm weather to produce fruit, starting them early gives you sturdy transplants that are ready as soon as soil temperatures warm in spring. Use a thermostatically controlled heating mat to maintain soil temperatures between 75°F and 85°F for optimal pepper and eggplant germination.

2. Garden peas

Sow English peas, sugar snap peas, and snow peas directly into the garden in mid-to-late February, provided the soil is dry enough to work without forming clods. Peas germinate in soil temperatures as low as 40°F. Plant seeds 1 inch deep and 2 inches apart along a trellis or support structure. If heavy rains are expected, cover the planted rows with clear plastic or horticultural fleece to prevent the seeds from rotting in cold, wet soil.

3. Root vegetables (carrots, radishes, and turnips)

Direct-sow carrots, radishes, and turnips directly into prepared garden beds in late February. Radishes grow rapidly and will be ready for harvest in less than a month, while carrots will grow slowly through the remaining cold weeks before accelerating in spring. Sow carrot seeds shallowly, about 1/4 inch deep, and keep the soil surface moist by covering the row with a light layer of straw or floating row cover.

Zones 9–10: Gulf Coast, Southwest, Florida, and California

USDA zones 9 and 10 encompass the Gulf Coast, the Southwest, Florida, and coastal California. Here, the average last frost occurs in January or February, meaning the spring growing season is already underway. Gardeners must plant early to ensure crops mature before the intense heat of summer arrives.

1. Warm-season transplants

February is the prime window to transplant tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, and tomatillos into outdoor beds. Ensure these transplants have been properly hardened off by gradually exposing them to outdoor wind and sun over a period of 7 to 10 days. Keep frost blankets on hand, as brief, late-season cold snaps can still occur in February.

2. Cucurbits (squash, melons, and cucumbers)

Direct-sow summer squash, zucchini, cantaloupe, and cucumbers directly into the garden in mid-to-late February. These crops thrive when sown directly into warm soil, which should be at least 60°F. Plant seeds in hills or raised mounds to improve drainage, placing 3 to 4 seeds per hill and thinning to the strongest seedling after germination.

3. Sweet corn and bush beans

Direct-sow bush beans, pole beans, and sweet corn in late February. These crops require warm soil to prevent seed rot. Plant corn in blocks of at least four short rows rather than one long single row to ensure proper wind pollination. Plant bush beans 1 inch deep in well-draining soil, spacing them 3 inches apart.

Essential February gardening jobs

Beyond sowing seeds, completing structural and maintenance tasks in February establishes a healthy foundation for the rest of the year.

1. Pruning dormant fruit trees

February is the ideal time to prune deciduous fruit trees, including apples, pears, peaches, and plums, while they are still dormant. Focus on removing dead, damaged, or crossing branches to improve light penetration and air circulation throughout the canopy. To understand how timing affects your orchard, read our guide on fall versus spring fruit tree planting.

2. Propagating hardwood cuttings

Before deciduous shrubs and trees leaf out, take hardwood cuttings of grapes, figs, mulberries, and elderberries. Select healthy, pencil-thick stems from the previous year's growth, cut them into 6- to 8-inch sections, and insert them into a well-draining potting mix or directly into a nursery bed. For step-by-step instructions on this cost-effective propagation method, see our article on rooting hardwood cuttings.

3. Pre-warming garden beds

For gardeners in cooler zones who want to plant early, warming the soil artificially is highly effective. Lay black plastic sheeting or clear polyethylene film over your future planting beds in mid-February. This traps solar radiation, raises soil temperatures by several degrees, and sheds excess winter precipitation, allowing you to plant weeks ahead of schedule.